(Part 3) Oh the Skin You’re In: Cleanse! – Dry Skin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

****Ok, so that was a loooooong break.****  My bad – sometimes life gets in the way of the fun stuff. 🙂

Memorial Day has come and gone but it’s still summer in LA and at 100° temperatures, it’s hot as Hades right now. Unlike the East Coast that is hung heavy with lots of humidity and moisture in the air as summer dies down and fall begins, the City of Angels remains a hot and dry climate (despite its many surrounding beaches). I love the outdoors but when the sun can potentially give you cracks and burns instead of joy – your skin regimen has got to be on-point!  I moved to LA to enhance healthy living, not to age rapidly due to sun exposure and dry breeze.

I want to look like this:

Not this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does that last picture above look like how you feel? All tight and dry? Like someone can light a match to you? The itching and burning are incessant no matter what you do? You see the flaking, the cracks, the lines and you apply cream after cream, masque after masque and yet, you just can’t seem to get that dewy glow that you once had as if you were a wood nymph covered in morning dew – cherub, fresh, flawless. If this is you, then you probably have dry skin also known as XEROSIS. Yes, that sounds much scarier. It’s serious and just like oily skin, time and care must be taken to not over-do-it whilst trying to find a remedy. While I am not an overall dry skin sufferer, I’m Brown, so I am therefore anti-all-things “Ashy” on my skin. What’s that you ask? I think UrbanDictionary.com sums the meaning up best:

“Of a pale grayish color…looks like ashes”

As in: “Hey girl, you got some lotion? I’m all ashy.”

Or: “Damn, Sheila skin be ashy…..she need some cocoa butter to moisten up.”

And my personal favorite complete with Washington, DC slang: “G, my elbows are ashy than a mug!!”

How Do You Cleanse Dry Skin?

The top priority when cleansing dry skin is – Maintaining Moisture! It’s about practicing a good internal and external skin regimen to help your body naturally produce the sebum it needs and preserve the oils you have by using products that seal in moisture without clogging your pores. Externally you have to cleanse and moisturize appropriately for your skin type. Internally – DRINK WATER! Lots of it! (But we’ll get to that later in another blog).

Dry Skin – Be Gentle!

Yes the same rule applies. Be Gentle. Don’t think because it’s dry suddenly what you need to do is overload on the moisturizing products. That would be a tragic mistake that might result in a “dry acne” breakout, rash or further drying. The key is to keep skin CLEAN and Hydrated with non-comedogenic products, water or oil based and preferably those with a little fruit-acid to help gently slough off dead skin.

THE CULPRITS & SOLUTIONS:

So what is the cause of your dry skin? It could be any number of the problems below or a combination. WebMD list the top 3 as:

1. CULPRIT: Dry Air = Dry Skin – Dry heat dries out our body’s natural oils and moisture, in addition to drying out our mucous membranes.

Solution: Use a humidifier to moisten the air where you sleep or relax the most in the home.

1. CULPRIT: Hot Baths & Showers – Hot Baths have the same effect on your overall skin that hot water has on anything else we use it on. It completely strips away dirt and would be harmful microbes. However, washing your face in hot water is a no-no because you may end up stripping all the natural oils and friendly bacterial flora from your skin.

Solution: Take showers in cool to tepid (lukewarm) water. This will allow you to thoroughly cleanse without over-drying.

1. CULPRIT: Not Giving Your Skin the Proper Moisture – So you’re all showered and fresh and ready to go. Lotion? Who needs that? We ALL do. Not giving your skin the proper moisture will only lead to flaky, itchy skin. Being ashy is not hot.

Solution: Externally, proper moisture starts with a good, non-drying cleanser and should be followed by a moisturizer that should be applied while the skin is still slightly damp.  Internally, drink lots of water. Our bodies are 60%-70% water and you should be drinking at least half your weight in water each day to replenish.

Most dry skin is not serious and we will all occasionally suffer from some form of it or another (albeit more visible on some of us). However, there are some more serious conditions that cause dry skin that may require the attention of a licensed dermatologist at best or at least a trip to your local aesthetician. They are: Psoriasis, Dermatitis, Eczema and even Insulin Resistance via Diabetes. More information about these conditions can be found at www.WebMD.com.

CLEANSERS – BEST BUYS FOR DRY SKIN

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CETAPHIL^® Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser for All Skin Types ($-$$) – Yup! Cetaphil wins
again. It is one of my absolute favorite products for dry skin and is again
dermatologist recommended. Still on the pricier end of your drug store cosmetic
buys running about $8-9 but it gently adds moisture without making your face
oily and it is non-comedogenic (meaning it won’t leave residue that could trap
oils in your pores) and rinses clean without overdrying. It is a great year
round product for those who live in warmer climates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CAROL’S DAUGHTER^®  Acai Hydrating Foam Cleanser ($$) – Touted as one of the best for women of color with dry skin, this new line by Carol’s Daugher cleanses, hydrates and rejuvenates dry skin that is uneven in tone and moisture. Infused with the anti-oxidant powers of Acai, along with the cooling and moisturizing effects of Ylang Ylang and Aloe, it’s also a potent anti-aging product. Plus, for all you Natural junkies out there, it contains NO Parabens, NO Petroleum, NO Artificial Colors and NO Mineral Oil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ALBA^® Coconut Milk Facial Wash ($)–100% Vegetarian, Soap Free and Hypo-allergenic,
this cleanser is moisturizing without leaving any greasy residue and it smells
wonderful!! Leaves the skin supple and glowing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DHC^® Deep Cleansing Oil ($$-$$$) – Despite the fact that this is oil, it rinses clean and doesn’t leave a greasy film on the skin. Products of this ilk originally started out as make-up removers but have since grown in popularity as great water-soluble cleansers that combat dry skin.

This concludes the first letter in C.R.E.W.(S)^2™ for CLEANSING the three major skin types. Next up: “R” for REPLINISH  – Inside & Out. If you have any questions about the products above or more recommendations, look me up at HealthiBeauti@gmail.com.

Part 2 – Oh the Skin You’re In: C.R.E.W.(S)2 Starts with CLEANSE!

All cleansing and replenishing products are marketed to three major skin types, oily, dry and normal. There are also specialty products that advertise cleansing and replenishing to combat and prevent wrinkles/other signs of aging, moderate to severe acne, rosacea and psoriasis. Black or African skin tends to be a bit oilier than others, my skin included. So, listed below are a few of my fav budget-conscience products ($) for oily skin, that can be found at your local pharmacy or health food store, with a few higher end products ($$) that I feel are worth the money.

Oily Skin – Be Gentle!

Though Black skin is more prone to excess oil, most everyone has oily skin in the area called the “T-Zone” – forehead, nose and chin.  When you think oily skin, you might think it needs extra scrubbing but nothing could be further from the truth. And while exfoliating is extremely important for oily skin to release trapped dirt and bacteria, cleanse or exfoliate oily skin too vigorously and guess what it produces….more oil! Your body does this as a defense to replace what’s been lost – its natural oil called “sebum”. The sebum, dead cells and sweat on your skin form an acid mantle that has a healthy PH of about 4.5-5.5. Being outside this PH range, for any skin type, could predispose your skin to acne, scales, dryness and wrinkles. So be gentle. The ridge pattern on your hand is often all the abrasive action your face needs. Think, your hands plus a dual action cleanser that will cleanse and exfoliate without the use of large pebbles.

Really, unless you are sitting in the patient chair of a professional aesthetician or dermatologist, I do not recommend using scrubs on your face where you can actually feel the exfoliant. They are just too harsh. If you do use one, the pebble consistency should be barely noticeable and it should not be performed on a daily basis.

For oily skin, you want to select a cleanser that doesn’t have too many oily fats like cocoa butter or lanolin as part of its ingredients. Instead, opt for cleansers with natural acids like Glycolic, Alpha-Hydroxy or Salicylic, that can perform gentle cleansing and exfoliation at the same time. Salicylic acid has an added benefit as it is also a medication that helps treat and prevent acne. The acids in general will melt away dead cells, oil and bacteria that could clog pores, leaving your face fresh without excessive drying. Finally, should you discover acne, blackheads or whiteheads, whatever you do, as tempted as you may be – DON’T PICK AT YOUR FACE. It will only create scarring and expose you to even more breakouts.

This is especially important to avoid on skin of color where damaged skin will likely leave hyperpigmentation. So, again, unless you are sitting in the patient chair of a professional aesthetician or dermatologist, no picking should be going on. Treat acne and its unfriendly cousins with chemicals such as Salicylic acid gel, Benzoyl Peroxide cream or acne Sulfur cream. Apply to the acne only, on the spot and not to your entire face.

******SIDE NOTE: Some of the tiny, tiny little white bumps see on your face may not be whiteheads (aka “comedones”) but may just be pockets of trapped keratin protein called “milia”. For more information on milia, please visit this blog: Five Reasons Little White Bumps Are On Your Face and How to Get Rid Of Them

CLEANSERS – BEST BUYS FOR NORMAL TO OILY SKIN

1.   CETAPHIL^® CetaphilDaily Facial Cleanser for Normal to Oily Skin ($-$$) – Cetaphil is one of my absolute favorite products for normal to oily skin types. It is on the pricier end of your drug store cosmetic buys running about $8-9 but ooh the sweet benefits of treating your skin like a baby will astound you. Non-comedogenic (meaning it won’t leave residue that could trap oils in your pores) and rinses clean without overdrying. It is a great Fall and Winter product when my skin doesn’t sweat as much.

2.   AVEENO^® Clear Complexion Cream Cleanser ($) – This Aveeno product packs a lot of cleansing power in one nickel size drop. It’s gentle and won’t dry out your skin and Aveeno promises “the soy extracts gently exfoliates to help improve skin’s tone and texture while salicylic acid, a proven blemish-fighting ingredient, works to clear up break-outs without over-drying, leaving skin soft, smooth and even-looking.” This is a great year-round product that is affordable and effective.

3.  AVEENO^® Clear Complexion Foaming Cleanser ($)– just as good as it’s cream cousin but without the cream. This Aveeno foam’s consistency also helps the product last longer as one pump is usually enough to cleanse your face and neck.

4.  MD FORTE^® Glycolic Acid Cleansers I, II and III ($$-$$$)– MD Forte is my Grand Poohbah of facial cleansers. It is OM-Jesus-fabulous! Perfect for my skin as a woman of color and my go-to product in every season. Even more perfect because my skin falls into the “extra” oily range. I don’t have to scrub or rub too hard and really don’t want to because the glycolic compound in this product makes it a highly potent gentle exfoliant. It comes in 3 grades of acidity, I, II and III, going from 12% glycolic compound to 30%. Most people cannot immediately tolerate 30%. Grade II, 15% is what works for me. Should I stop using the product for a few months, I have to start back at grade one and work my way up. I advise the same for anyone else; start with grade I and work your way up. With all acidic cleansers, you may feel slight tingling with first use. If it gets to burning sensations, discontinue use and take a step back to something with no acid like Cetaphil to calm your skin. The only down side to MD Forte is it can be a bit pricey, running about $25-$30 a pop! But don’t fret; one of my fav cosmetic sites, SkinStore.com often does 20% off promotions on MD Forte products or storewide sales, so check them out. This product is not available at your local drug store.

5.  GLYTONE^® Mild Cream Wash ($$-$$$) – Glytone is another quality albeit it pricey pick. This cream face wash cost $30 for 6 ounces. But the product works! And might I suggest sizing your nickel sized dispensed amount back to a dime. It’s usually still adequate for face and neck. Their biggest bonus is that they also have a full body care product line complete with glycolic acid body wash, body lotion and a heel and elbow cream. How’s that for keeping dry, “ashy” knees and elbows at bay? This product may be available at Sephora or your local dermatologist’s office.

Well, that just about covers it for cleansing normal to oily skin. Stay tuned next time for more on what to do to cleanse dry and acne-prone skin. If you have any questions about the products above or more recommendations, look me up at HealthiBeauti@gmail.com

Oh the Skin You’re In: A Five Part Series by Guest Blogger Chinyere Ibegwam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So I live in Los Angeles. This means I get to experience on a daily basis what some people pay good money to be around for just a few days on their annual vacations. But the sun, the fumes, the sweat, the night life, a hectic schedule and the smog can wreak complete havoc on my skin. Should I ever make the mistake of not caring for it after exposing it to all these elements, means I will pay the price in some form of blotch, pimple, blemish, burn (yes, Black people burn), dark spots, bags or dryness. Now, I’m sure many of you out there suffer from the same fate in one way or another. Grimy NY city; the dusty state of Arizona, the muggy East Coast layering you with a day’s worth of sweat in one hour…the list goes on and on. That’s why it’s important to have a good daily skincare regimen so you can C.R.E.W.(S)^2™ into your best looking skin. You have to CLEANSE it daily, REPLINISH what’s been lost, EXERCISE for blood circulation, hydrate by drinking ample amounts of WATER, apply SUNSCREEN & get an adequate amount of SLEEP every night. Don’t do this and you run the risk of looking like a London Tube Commuter…they never see the sun.

And while the cosmetic trade is a BILLION dollar industry, I don’t want to go broke buying my fountain of youth elixirs, (the cosmetic aisle to me = kid in a candy store). So instead, I will educate you in a 5-part series, on the basic science behind your skin and how to care for it while giving you a few of my favorite web resources and budget-conscience products and hope that you can form an inexpensive regimen to CREW(S)²  into your own fabulous ethereal glow!

THE SCIENCE BEHIND YOUR SKIN

What Are You Made Of?

To start, our skin is actually made up of 3 major layers from top to bottom: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis (Figure 1.1); and each of these are made up of multiple sub-layers of skin cells. The very top layers of the epidermis, called the “stratum corneum” are made up of several layers of flat, hollow cells called “keratinocytes” that are completely dead! (Figure 1.2) These cells contain no nucleus but have two important properties: 1) They are hollow and itching to soak up whatever we feed it and 2) keratinocytes are home to an important protein called keratin. Keratin acts as a waterproof barrier for our bodies, trapping moisture in and keeping harmful things out. It also helps toughen the cells, increasing the skins elasticity and making our skin an ace at buffering our constant wear and tear.

Figure 1.1

                       

Figure 1.2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we age, these layers naturally decrease, old surface cells flake off and our skin regenerates, pushing new keratinocytes to the surface that are just waiting to be fed and plumped up with whatever we feed it.

Color Me BEAUTIFUL

Another key protein that plays a role in healthy looking skin is Melanin.  Melanin is a protein that acts as an umbrella from the sun’s harmful UV rays, protecting our skin cells from damage that would cause premature aging in addition to being responsible for giving us our skin color. Everyone has melanin but it is the activity level of the melanin-producing cells called “melanocytes” that determines our natural hue. (Figure 1.3)

Figure 1.3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those with pale skin have less active melanocytes and they produce less melanin and those with darker skin have more active melanocytes and they produce more melanin. This activity level is stimulated by exposure to UV rays from the sun or from other sources like tanning beds. Thus, over exposure on melanin-active skin can cause too much melanin to be produced and could cause dark spots to get darker, known as “hyperpigmentation” or it could cause “sunburn” on skin that has already reached its melanin-producing peak.

Sun Worshiping

****Sunburn is highly dangerous because it means genetic damage is being done to your skins melanocyte cells, increasing their chance of mutation and thus increasing the skin’s risk of developing the most dangerous and malignant form of cancer called Melanoma; and though you may hear a person of color declare Black people don’t get skin cancer because we are naturally immune, it is completely false. EVERYONE and ANYONE can get sunburned and EVERYONE and ANYONE can develop melanoma. ****

According to the CDC’s statistics on cancer, some races have a higher risk for developing melanoma, with Whites having the greatest risk and Blacks the least. Yes, despite our high melanin-activity levels, we can get and die from melanoma. In fact, the Journal of American Medical Associations Archives of Dermatology noted in 2010, that Black women in Florida displayed a higher rate of mortality after being diagnosed with melanoma than did Whites. So while we may not develop it as much, we die from it more. This means it is just as important for us to wear an SPF appropriate sunscreen and protect ourselves from the sun as it is for other races.

You Passed!

Now, that you’ve been armed with the basic science behind your skin, I’m sure you realize just how futile it is to believe any product in the cosmetic aisle can keep your face looking like your 25 when your 55. No, the only thing that can do that is something called PHOTOSHOP. Not even the best plastic surgeon could accomplish such a feat. But the science behind your skin means there are things you can do and not do to ensure you age gracefully.

Stay tuned next time for more on cleansing your skin. If you have any questions about the science above or more recommendations, look me up at HealthiBeauti@gmail.com.

Chinyere Ibegwam - Author of "Oh the Skin You're In"